There aren’t many Algerian restaurants in New York City so my search for one was very limited. What I did find though was a diamond in the rough called Merguez & Frites. It’s a no-frills/hole-in-the-wall that has just a counter inside and some tables outside. Behind the counter of the very small establishment was its owner, who from the moment I stepped inside treated me like family. He was so disarming with his charm and sweetness that I completely forgot to ask him his name. I told him I’d never had Algerian food and what did he suggest I have on my first try. He said to have the dish the restaurant was named for, merguez + frites, and passed me a plate with hot french fries + sauce to snack on while I waited for my food.
Merguez is a thin, mildly spicy North African sausage that is usually stuffed with lamb, harissa, cumin, fennel seeds, and other tasty spices. I had the merguez on a soft french baguette stuffed with french fries and topped with a sauce that seemed like tangy mustard. The sandwich is exceptionally filling and is the size of a hero. The sausage was still juicy even after it left the grill and was on my sandwich. I tend to find sausages dry if they get grilled for too long and these retained their delicious flavor and moisture.
Next up was the Algerian-style pizza which had a surprisingly sweet tomato sauce and reminded me of a thinner version of a Sicilian slice. The crust is reminiscent of focaccia bread where it’s a bit spongy and crusty at the same, ya know? A very delightful little pizza, which in hindsight I wish I didn’t share with my boyfriend. According to the owner the pizza is traditionally served with anchovies on top.
He also recommended I try his take on a deconstructed coca, which is a North African pastry that is stuffed with bell peppers, tomatoes, and onions. This version had all the veggies, cheese + some chunks of seasoned tuna on top. This flaky pastry was dangerously good + I could definitely see it as a breakfast item I’d eat with an egg on top.
Before leaving the shop the owner was exceptionally kind + offered me a big slice of basbousa for free. It’s a very sweet dense cake that is made out of semolina, coconut, almonds, and sugar syrup that can either be flavored with orange blossom water or rose water. Mine was flavored with rose water and was so sweet I could only eat a couple of bites. I do love me some syrupy desserts, but I can only eat but so much of it. Basbousa is a grainy dessert due to the semolina flour and is thick + sticky. I personally like the texture because it reminded me of a slightly thicker/compact cornbread. I usually don’t care for rosewater, but in this dish, it wasn’t very overpowering and just left a slightly lingering aftertaste.
Merguez + Frites was a great little trip to Algeria without the 20+ hour flight. The place had non-stop customers who were definitely looking for a piece of something familiar. Being one of the few places that serve Algerian food makes it a hot spot for those longing for home. If you’re in Astoria, Queens + want to try something unique, cheap + tasty then this is your place!
Cook. Eat. Repeat.
Natalie
Next country we visit is Andorra!
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Amazing!!! I lived in Algeria in 2020. Definitely an interesting food culture and much different from the other foods in the region.
This looks great, Im impressed how extensively you delved into just Algeria. I would be regular of the Sausage and Chip roll. I was in Andorra a few years go but treated myself to a fancy non local meal so Im very interested what you partake of.
Makazole - South Africa (Mzansi, Suid Afrika)